It’s early March and we are in Zurich, eager to climb on board our Swiss railway carriage bound for the destination of Adelboden-Lenk a name some snowsports fans may recognise from the FIS Chuenisbärgli World Cup ski race. Where each year, 35,000 spectators make the pilgrimage to witness elite skiers tackle the 60% gradients and weave through 60 slalom gates. Off-piste, the high-octane energy spills into the town as the party atmosphere takes over.

While the World Snowboard Guide crew are never ones to shy away from an après-ski weekend, we’re delighted to be arriving in a quieter season. Spring sun, empty pistes, and fresh tracks is the hand we have been dealt. What’s not to like!

Leaving Zurich’s city buzz far behind, we head for Bern, where we connect to the famed GoldenPass Line. The scenic ride carries us through picture postcard valleys and villages. And after our final change at Zweisimmen, we arrive in Lenk just 20 minutes later—our short journey offering ample time to scan an itinerary promising snowboarding, sledging, spas, and that legendary Swiss hospitality. Something which we experience in abundance as we step through the doors of the historic Lenkerhof Gourmet Spa Resort.

It’s here Sandra Schönmann the hotel’s marketing manager greets us for our tour of the Lenkerhof which at over 350 years old, has quite the story to tell. Inside the lobby, soft leather armchairs and herringbone flooring guide the eye to a bright, chandelier-lit bar where a grand piano tinkles gently in the background.

We venture further descending to the atmospheric wine cellar, its aged walls housing a curated collection of wines, whiskies, and spirits. The hotel hosts private tasting nights here—ideal for indulging in style and if you happen to overindulge there is also an answer to that. 

The hotel’s wellness services which began as a bathhouse over 350 years ago, now transformed into the “7sources beauty & spa” it spans 2,000 m² featuring indoor and outdoor pools, saunas, and steam rooms it’s the perfect place to relax after a day in the mountains and forms the conclusion of our tour.

Post-tour, there’s time to freshen up before dinner, where we meet Rolf Marmet who alongside working for the tourism office, provides private ski lessons and mountain bike tours.

On route to the restaurant Rolf gives us his unique insight as to how different the area is to international hotspots of the Swiss Alps which attract a hodgepodge of visitors from all countries. In sharp contrast 80% of Lenk’s visitors are Swiss. Not that they want to keep the place under wraps “It’s a family resort at heart” Rolf explains “a place where families can gather together and experience nature.” 

He even jokes that sooner or later we are bound to bump into his father and brother who he says he might drop in literally. Pointing skywards we marvel at the  striking peaks whilst he suggests we might spot him paragliding somewhere in the blue skies above.

 
Turning off the ignition we approach the base of the Simmenfälle waterfall by foot.  Making a rookie mistake I soon learn whilst trainers might be ideal or a restaurant weren’t they were not the best option for winter waterfall hikes. Still, soggy shoes can’t not dampened our spirits and the sight of the Simmenfälle where 2,800 litres of water per second flow through seven springs, elevates them even further. 

Whilst the full force of the falls rumble high above us darkness creeps in and the full moon that emerges is something to behold, illuminating the Ammertenhorn and Wildstrubel mountains. We pull out our phones for a quick photo before Rolf tells us it’s time to unplug.

A little perplexed by the request we enter the  Restaurant Simmenfälle where everything becomes clearer as our host Reto Zürcher explains their “digital detox” ethos where guests arrive searching specifically for a break from Wi-Fi and phone signals. Reto continues

“Digital detox means that we deliberately do not have Wi-Fi here in Simmenfall, and we also do not want any cell phone radiation. Many guests come to us specifically for this reason. They long for peace, relaxation, and digital abstinence.”

Explaining the concept further we learn how “Even radiologists are prescribed time here to be away from radiation”. It really does make us stop and think about how reliant we are becoming on our devices and what being plugged in is doing too our minds and bodies.

As we pause to reflect on this we are invited into the dining room where we are thrown back too a simpler way of life, the old farmhouse stone walls are mixed with a traditional Swiss wooden interior,  furniture and cow print tablecloths. I won’t say I am not tempted to take a photo of the bubbling cheese fondue that arrives in front of us but photos couldn’t do it justice anyway.

Conversation flows easily in this tech-free haven, and after dinner, we head next door where we’re serenaded by a family strumming guitars and playing board games.. It all feels a bit sound of music everyone singing together in the mountain air. We are then presented with a guitar ourselves and after a brief tuning of the strings we step outside to stroll through the winter pastures where we sit fireside and produce a repertoire of The Kinks, The Beatles, and Metallica. It’s an unforgettable memory and under the cover of darkness we are able to capture some photographic evidence (in flight mode of course.)

At an ungodly hour of 8 a.m well at least for aspiring rock stars,  we rise for another tour date today heading to the Lenk/Adelboden ski area. Still feeling a little weary, the fresh coffee brings us back to life. The food is pretty special too amongst the cereals, eggs, and meats is a cheese board selection with 30 varieties it’s the pride of the kitchen. Like mice we all gather for some nibbles.

Outside our roadie Rolf is back, our first destination is the Intersport Troxler where snowboards and skis are gathered. We then head onwards to the lift station, where Rolf’s father pops into view—now semi-retired he looks younger than his years and has recently taken to selling ski passes after he found retirement was, well, a little boring. After a brief family reunion and some jealous looks slopewards from father to son, he bids us farewell to explore the 200 km of slopes and 61 lifts connecting Lenk and Adelboden.

By March I normally have a few weeks of snow under my belt but shockingly I confess to the  groups it’s my first day of the season. Thankfully I am not alone in this and after agreeing on some confidence building blues, we up the ante and try the red pistes for more excitement. With a growing confidence in the air we forget all about the digital detox and Rolf puts his skiing prowess into practice effortlessly following us with an action cam. His slope knowledge and camera skills are impeccable, capturing our best turns in near-perfect conditions,  fresh snow, quiet runs, and brilliant sunshine. Definitely a memory worth capturing, what we also need to catch is some lunch.

Rolf as ever leads the way, this time to the Mountain Restaurant Metschstand where panoramic views stretch  from the terrace to the snow capped peaks beyond, it’s the perfect Alpine scene for some selfies.

Inside I scan the menu but can’t see past the vegetable rösti topped with all things sprouts—Christmas inspired or perhaps Swissmas on a plate.

Post-lunch, it’s tough to get moving again, but the promise of perfect spring conditions as we lap the 10er Stand-Xpress and nearby pistes soon gets us motivated. One last run and we head down to catch the ski bus into the town centre for some exploring.

The central square is charming, adorned with metal murals depicting icons from the town’s past and present farmers, woodworkers and even a snowboarder. Nearby, I also spot what looks like a giant fondue pot (or maybe I’m just hungry again), which inspires a trip to the local cheese shop for souvenirs.

On Rolf’s insistence we head en-masse to the Espressionist café near the station. His local hangout and we can see why as soon as we smell the coffee and see the freshly baked snacks. Reenergised, I stroll the scenic route back to the hotel, passing quaint Swiss houses and the town church, arriving just in time for a few laps in the indoor pool, a quick visit to the sauna is followed by a dip in the heated outdoor pool where I peer out into the distance transfixed by the valley views beyond.

If a day on the piste has felt like an exhilarating challenge then a visit to the hotel’s Restaurant Spettacolo takes an equal amount of stomach stamina. With six gourmet dishes to go through and a selection of 17 to choose from it is like a piste map for the plate. And after some advice from our guide the head chef, my chosen route down the mountain of food takes in a langoustine cauliflower curry, coconut celery apple soup, veal with pak choi and potatoes and a dessert of white chocolate, rhubarb, and strawberry tart. Paired with exceptional Swiss wines—a 2023 Sauvignon Blanc Agne and a 2022 Éo Noir Merlot. Perfectly sized none of the dishes feel overwhelming and it’s the culinary highlight of the trip.

The next morning after struggling to fasten my salopettes not a trip highlight,  I opt for a lighter breakfast before Betelberg, a 45 km area known for wide, groomed pistes. Rolf comments tat snowboarders would enjoy the gentle incline from Leiterli to Stoss and the seven-kilometre-long Tschuggenpiste is a gem for those who love to carve. We can forget about all of that for today though as we board the gondola empty handed with only walking boots strapped to our feet for a day of hiking and sledging. 

Our first stop is the 3.2km circular hiking trail the ‘Leiterli-Steinstoss-Agematte-Leiterli’. The distance may seem short but at an altitude of over 2000 metres everything seems a little bit tougher. The first incline veers from the ski area onto a more defined walking route. It is worth the burning sensation in our calves as the views open up on either side.

Reaching a plateau we are all grateful to give our lungs a chance to recover and as we continue the hike talk turns to how beautiful this area is, this becomes even more evident from the nearby viewing point where the fresh alpine air is intoxicating.

Descending for a period the route swings back on itself emerging into a forested area, it’s here we feel the fresh snow falling on our faces for the first time of the trip, while those on the piste might be experiencing near white out conditions in the trees we are protected, the only sounds to be heard are our feeting trudging in the fresh snow and the occasional bird call it is pure bliss. The route continues onwards and just as we appear back into open terrain the snow clouds seem to lift, the gondola emerges before us teasing us as we need to make one final lung bursting climb. 
 

Thankfully our destination, the Berghaus Leiterli lies just beyond the summit. Coming in from the cold we are met with a cosy feeling restaurant with it’s warm wooden interior. The food smells wonderful too and we can’t wait to look at the menu. In danger of a  Swiss Cheese overdose I forgo the temptation of another fondue and can look no further than the local beef burger a ‘Lenker Black Angus’ packed with pickles and salad and a curry mayonnaise mix.

It soon replenishes the calories that have been burned off in the morning hike. It also leaves me rather full and heavy, which might normally be a problem for snowboarding but not for an afternoon of sledging where the extra weight might give me an extra edge.

Assembling outside we take our sledges in hand and put on our best race faces all while preparing to drop into the course. Under clear skies we leave the Leiterli top station (1,943 metres above sea level) and start the 6 km route dropping more than 700 metres in a matter of minutes all whilst trying to control the sledge and stay on course. All this takes place whilst we try and absorb the amazing mountain landscape and Mt. Wildstrubel which glistens as we pass in the afternoon sun. 
 

Navigating long wide stretches we compete to be first to reach the Pöschenried (1,200 metres above sea level) and the finish line. Despite personally missing the podium the group suggest we can have another run, which turns into a trilogy of descents which don’t earn me any silverware but instead earn a big grin that is plastered across all of our faces. 

It’s a grin that has barely left my face throughout my time in Lenk and only the thought of leaving this winter wonderland could wipe it away. With a heavy heart I decide to do some  last-minute shopping and find the perfect souvenir, cap in hand we bid our farewells to Rolf Sandra and the  Lenkerhoff eager to return. Perhaps for race weekend if we can get a room

If You Go
Getting There: Take Swiss Rail to Lenk via Bern and Zweisimmen
Where to Stay: Lenkerhof Gourmet Spa Resort – 5-star luxury with wellness focus
Ski Area: 200 km of pistes across Adelboden-Lenk, 61 lifts
Don’t Miss: Digital detox fondue at Restaurant Simmenfälle, sledging at Betelberg, and Spettacolo’s tasting menu