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  4. Snowboarding into Spring in Selva Val Gardena

Snowboarding into Spring in Selva Val Gardena

The sun beats down on my perfectly placed deck chair  as I sit at the top of the Ciampinoi gondola station.I have my boots unlaced, a drink in my hand and my weary feet outstretched and I’m processing the views of the Sassolungo the 1km ‘long stone’ that looms large in front of me

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To my right is a signpost announcing the starting point for the world-renowned Sella Ronda circuit and beyond that sits a 360-degree view stretches across the Dolomites and miles of superbly maintained slopes that I have spent a week exploring.

A week earlier we arrive into Innsbruck airport in search of signs of a different nature. Through the crowds I spot the placard for ‘Inghams Val Gardena’ and our friendly reps who after a quick name check get us aboard the coach bound for Selva Val Gardena. After a quick two hour transfer we are pulling into Selva and the brightly lit glamour of the Hotel Oswald where we step through the doors and check-in at the bottom of the beautiful chandelier-illuminated staircase.

Hotel Oswald

Once strictly the preserve of high society and known as the best hotel in the alps, the hotel instantly impresses. As does the equally royal welcome we receive from the hotelier who once checked in, guides us to the dining room where a late-night meal of Italian meats and cheeses are laid out. It is our first taste of the fine foods and wines of the UNESCO-protected Dolomites and the perfect tonic before bedtime. 

Rising early the next day and keen to assess the surroundings in daylight as we take breakfast against  the dining room windows where the views stretch past Selva to the sun rising over the distant Dolomites. Eager with anticipation, I finish the first of many strong Italian coffees and board the hotel's private ski transfer to our first destination, the ski rental shop Dolomiti Adventures. Walking through the doors, I was impressed by the latest range of snowboards on offer and the staff that offered a personal feet measurement service that ensured perfect fitting snowboard boots.

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Taking a short and now comfy stroll from the shop, I reach the Ciampinoi gondola where our guide Christina from Val Gardena tourism awaits. Explaining our plans to tackle the whole of the Sella Ronda would have to wait due to high winds. We put new plans in place to explore the many slopes on offer from Selva. This tour begins from the top of the Ciampinoi gondola (2254m) onto the red and black slopes of Ciampioni (22) and (29) before taking the long red slope to Plan De Gralba 1800m. From here the Piz Sella gondola accesses some cruisy blues where we can crank out some nice easy turns.

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Arriving at the modern Mercedes Benz chairlift we are transported above the Piz Sella snow park which has probably the most beautiful backdrop I have ever seen. Offering some equally out-of-this-world features, we see freestylers leaping over cars and landing on the pistes below.

The efficient lift system here quickly allowed us to cover the Piz Sella, Piz Seteur, and Gran Paradiso areas before riding down to Vallongia for a spot of lunch in the sun at the Baita Vallongia. Opting for the local dish of 'Canerderli di spinaci con burro fuso e parmigiano', or dumplings with spinach, butter and parmesan cheeses for the non-native tongue. I relish the perfect portion size and fresh local ingredients and once fed and watered am ready for an afternoon on the slopes. 

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With some more laps under our belts and the spring snow starting to soften we follow a gentle tree-lined piste back to Selva town centre via what may be the world's shortest chairlift. The extra altitude was worth obtaining though  as it provided the extra speed needed to conquer the final flat section that wrapped up a fantastic day on the slopes.

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Not that a trip to the Dolomites is all about snowboarding though, as we found out the next day when we headed to the pistes in search of the Rock the Dolomites festival. A week-long music event that features a different act performing each day somewhere in the ski area. The final day saw me searching for the Rifugio SALEI Hütte, situated at a height of over 2000 metres and framed by the Sella Pass. The hotel is normally renowned as a relaxing wellness hotel, but today the serene ambiance was shattered by the sounds of Temporaneamente, who delivered a mixture of rock and grunge, closing out the festival in style. It was the perfect way to spend an afternoon, enjoying a couple of drinks in the spring sun before tackling the slopes back to town. We only wish we had done the whole festival!

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Still in a celebratory mood after the afternoon tunes we hit the streets of Selva in search of another après-ski fix, and despite the season nearing its end, several resort bars are still buzzing with life. The outdoor seating at La Stua was full of punters and dancing ski instructors, whose tanned faces looked exhilarated to be toasting the end of another season. It was deep in the depths of the Luislkeller where the real revelry was unfolding though.

From the brightly lit exterior proclaiming it as the best après-ski in the Alps,we headed downstairs to a world of wonder where the cheesiest apres blasted out to the eager crowd. From 3pm onward, the alcohol flowed freely, as did the shots of grappa that arrived in a carved out ski.  Deciding to get out while the going was good we wandered the pretty streets and sights of Selva and stopped for a poignant visit at the nearby church. Stopping to read the war monuments and tributes to local climbers who had lost their lives in the Dolomites, served as a sobering reminder of how lucky we were to be living life to the full in the mountains.

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Despite boasting some of the best snowmaking facilities in the world, it still felt heavenly the next day when the snow-cannoned lower slopes were topped up with a late-season delivery of the white stuff that turned the lower green pastures to an image of pure white bliss. This led to some superb morning conditions in the Alta Badia area where the long runs directly under the Passo Gardena gondola provide some fresh snow perfect for cranking out some turns. With fresh powder underfoot and spectacular views overhead of the Passo Pordoi 2239m and Gruppo Del Sella 3115m range, I paused and considered that in all of my years snowboarding how I had never quite encountered anything as beautiful as snowboarding under the Dolomites.

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After the unexpected freeze comes the thaw and a somewhat warmer day that encourages us to make the most of the Val Gardena Mobil Card, a complimentary card available from most accommodations. Offering an eco-friendly way to explore the area, the Mobil Card grants free access to the South Tyrolean transport network and the electric-powered Ritten Light Railway and beyond . It is just one of the many environmental initiatives  put in place that has seen the Val Gardena UNESCO World Heritage receive the GSTC (Global Sustainable Tourism Council) certificate for sustainable tourism.  


Boarding the bus just outside our hotel the short journey winds up and down mountain passes towards Santa Cristina and the renowned FIS World Cup slope Saslong, and onwards towards the pretty town of Ortirsei. On one side a lengthy funicular that climbs to the summit of Resciesa Raschotz (2282m) and provides some great thrilling toboggan runs. On the other side lies our destination, the Alpe di Siusi ropeway, which takes us to our snowboarding destination. Stepping out of the lift, I am taken aback by the scale of the Alpe di Siusi mountain plateau, a high alpine pasture that spans 52km and is the widest in Europe.

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It feel more like a valley floor and is an unexpected sight nestled below the breathtaking scenery of the Gruppo del Sella, Gruppo del Sassolungo, Catinaccio, and the Sciliar that surround the Alpe di Siusi. It's a view that we decide to soak up over a drink at Montseuc, a mountain top restaurant that offers superb views over the plateau. Energised by coffee beans and sun beams, we secure our snowboards and embark on our descent, ready to explore the 63 km of pristine slopes on the Seiser Alm.

What we find here is some great terrain for beginners seeking easy and wide slopes, and the Alpe di Siusi (Seiser Alm) snowpark. Spanning 1.5km, the snowpark offers 40 structures, including Slide Boxes, Kickers, and the Easy Family Line and is perfectly suited for freestyle first-timers and pros alike. Deciding to make the most of the sunny afternoon we cruise down and easy blue run toward the  Al Sole and Mezdí chairlifts and on towards the Sanon chairlift via some nice red pistes that eventually lead us onto the  Steger Dellai chairlift where we begin our return.

With tiring legs and a hunger now building we return for a leisurely descent via the long gondola to explore Ortisei. As we stroll through the streets, it feels as if we've stepped onto a movie set. All around us are buildings, adorned with intricate details. Arriving during Easter adds an extra touch of enchantment, as giant colourful eggs appear throughout the streets. 

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Unable to resist the lure of the Easter bunny any longer, we hop into a pretty coffee shop decorated  in easter eggs. The bizarre combination of hot chocolate and a pizza-style panini that we order might seem like an odd combination, but the perfect mixture of a ski holiday drink and Italian cuisine is one that lingers longer in the mind than in the mouth.

A more permanent fixture is the mixture of modern art and traditional sculptures scattered throughout its streets. Further into our walk, we encounter one of many exquisite wooden sculptures that showcase the carving skills of local woodworkers who have been honing their craft in the Dolomites for over 300 years.

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The shops dotted around the town sell smaller versions of this fine work and also promote the ethos of only selling local items that adhere to 'Made in - DOLOMITES Val Gardena - with LOVE' label. With our bags full we board the late afternoon bus back to Selva, where we make another of our frequent stops at the hotel spa. The sauna, steam room and jacuzzi soothe our bodies and we feel refreshed for one final venture into town. 

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With snow starting to fall again we quicken our pace and aim for a nice warm bar but are stopped in our tracks by the endless group of over 1300 weary skiers who have appeared from nowhere. It seems we have stumbled across the SellaRonda ski marathon, a night time ski race that crosses all 42 kilometres of the Sella Ronda. With all the lifts shut and not due to high winds this time, the competitors line up in teams of two and skin up to tackle the  four Dolomite passes Passo Gardena, Campolongo, Pordoi and Sella. It is a route that passes the main villages of Selva/Wolkenstein, Corvara, Arabba and Canazei. 

With only head torches and muscle power to pull them through, our only hope is they are a bit more accustomed to the Val Gardena region in darkness then we were on arrival for our epic week in the Dolomites.

selvaskimarathon

Clapping them on their way and  feeling tired just watching the spectacle we make the effort to have one last dance in the Luiskeller before returning once more to the comfort of the hotel bar where a eggnog cocktail of  ‘bombardino’ awaits us (another Italian delicacy). Sinking onto the leather sofas it feels like the perfect time to reflect on our unforgettable week in the Dolomites, a remarkable destination that has lived up to its billing as one of the most beautiful ski resorts in the world.

Our trip was booked through Inghams. 7 nights half board at Hotel Oswold, Selva. Flying 16th March 2024 from Birmingham start from £1229 per person. Based on 2 adults sharing. Flights and transfers included

Trips

  • A Week in the Wilderness: Part One Ruka
  • A Week in the Wilderness: Part Two Salla
  • A Swiss Snowboard Safari
  • Fantastic peaks: The climbs of Grindelwald
  • Hells Bells at the Carnaval d'Evolène
  • Wish you were Pyhä!
  • Snowboarding into Spring in Selva Val Gardena
  • Midsummer in Salla the middle of nowhere
  • A license to thrill in the Jungfrau Region and Interlaken
  • Moving and Relaxing in the Ski Welt!

Val Gardena

A breathtaking and bewildering journey to the most beautiful ski area in the World.

read more

Val Gardena receives GSTC certificate for sustainable tourism

Val Gardena's commitment to sustainability has now been confirmed by the GSTC certification (Global Sustainable Tourism Council).

read more

 

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