In the words of the late, great Meat Loaf, “two out of three ain’t bad,” and that pretty much sums up our ambitious attempt to ride a trilogy of Swiss snowboard resorts in as many days.

Leaving Zurich, our mission is to ride the all-natural snow resort of Les Marécottes, soak up the legendary atmosphere of Verbier and experience the tranquillity of the traffic-free Aletsch Arena.

Whilst everything ran like Swiss clockwork off the slopes, Mother Nature had a few surprises in store for our arrival. With the Alps experiencing one of their driest starts to winter in years, our trip was about to reveal a rather different side to the Swiss mountains.

Arrival in Les Marécottes: A Room with a Zoo

Under normal conditions, the slopes around Les Marécottes — one of Switzerland’s few entirely natural-snow resorts — would be attracting eager freeriders carving through a healthy base of fresh powder by New Year. Not that any of this is visible to me yet, as darkness has descended by the time I step off the train at Les Marécottes. There’s a sharp chill in the air, but thankfully the glow of a full moon illuminates the nearby signs pointing towards our destination, the Les Marécottes Hotel.

According to my carefully prepared instructions, the hotel is just a simple 500-metre walk from the station. In hindsight, it probably would have been — had I taken the road and followed the correct signs. Instead, I find myself, suitcase in tow, trudging along a rocky forest trail in darkness, the clatter of the suitcase wheels feeling completely at odds with the peaceful serenity of the surrounding woodland.

Unusual as my arrival may be, there’s something magical about taking the path less trodden. Towering larch trees frame the moonlit path, and the forest feels wonderfully wild and untouched. My noisy arrival clearly hasn’t gone unnoticed either. Somewhere nearby, a pack of wolves begins to howl. It’s not exactly the welcome I was expecting, but my initial fears prove unfounded, as this is no ordinary hotel.

The Boutique Hotel Zoo des Marécottes offers what might genuinely be described as a unique concept: “a room with a zoo.” Emerging from the forest, I encounter my wolf companions, thankfully tucked safely inside an enclosure, and after exchanging what feels like a respectful parting howl, I head inside to check into one of the most unusual hotels I’ve ever stayed in.

Newly built around the zoo’s existing infrastructure, even the timber still carries that fresh Alpine scent. What’s slightly less fresh is our own weary travelling pack for the next few days. Fergal from Tipperary, Ireland, gathers alongside Guillaume and Laurent from Paris, all of us having crossed Europe in pursuit of a snow fix. After a welcome drink, we retreat to our rooms, where powerful rain showers and luxurious surroundings quickly revive travel-tired limbs.

Later, we regroup in the hotel restaurant to sample a spread of local dishes. I can’t resist the wood-fired pizza, accompanied by local wines and beers from the Valais region. It’s a fine way to end our first evening together.
The next morning, I opened the balcony doors to discover a beautiful view across the forest and surrounding mountains that had been hidden by darkness the evening before. One thing immediately catches my attention, though — the balcony is enclosed by discreet steel mesh. The reason becomes obvious when I glance down and spot a bear calmly enjoying breakfast beside a pile of half-eaten apples below.

After exchanging what feels like a polite good morning, I head downstairs for coffee and pastries before meeting the group outside for a guided tour of the zoo with one of the keepers. First up are our wolf friends, who seem significantly more enthusiastic once raw meat appears. Nearby, majestic lynx prowl silently through their enclosure, while things become decidedly more gentle as we help feed goats, deer and marmots.It’s certainly a different kind of Alpine morning from the one we had imagined, but one that proves every bit as memorable. A short walk later, we board the Les Marécottes gondola towards La Creusaz. Despite the limited snowfall, winter still feels very much alive up here. Snow dusts the surrounding peaks, while crisp mountain air, blue skies and panoramic scenery provide plenty of reasons to appreciate our surroundings.

Instead of riding, we spend time exploring sections of the resort on foot, taking in the views and imagining what this terrain must feel like after a proper storm cycle. Even on a quieter winter day, it’s obvious this place would be spectacular on a powder day.

Lunch at Restaurant de La Creusaz is another highlight. Enjoying a rösti on the sun-drenched terrace, with views stretching towards Mont Blanc, is a pretty wonderful way to spend an Alpine afternoon. Reluctantly, we descend back to the valley before hopping on the train to nearby Martigny for a different kind of Alpine experience: a visit to Distillerie Morand.

Founded in 1889, the distillery is famous for its celebrated Liqueur du Grand-Saint-Bernard. The original recipe, entrusted to founder Louis Morand by a canon from the Grand Saint Bernard Hospice, remains a closely guarded family secret to this day.
As interesting as the history is, it’s the company’s modern sustainability efforts that stand out just as much. Leftover apricot stones from its liqueur production are now carefully cleaned, crushed and transformed into hand creams and cosmetic products rather than discarded — an unexpectedly clever way of helping soothe weather-worn hands after long Alpine days outdoors.
Naturally, the tour concludes with an inevitable stop at the gift shop before we continue onwards after what has already become a surprisingly full day.

Thankfully, the pace slows considerably at the Thermal Park of Saillon. With multiple indoor and outdoor heated pools, saunas, hammams and thermal rivers, it feels like exactly the kind of place you want to find yourself after a long day in the mountains. Floating along the warm thermal river beneath the January night sky, surrounded by snowy peaks in the distance, is every bit as memorable as any snowboard run. Sitting outdoors in 34-degree water while cold mountain air drifts overhead feels wonderfully surreal — and perhaps proof that Alpine escapes don’t always need perfect snow conditions to feel special.
The next morning begins early.

Verbier: Back on the Snow

At 6:45 am, we’re wheeling our suitcases back towards the station beneath a bright full moon. This time, we wisely choose the road instead of the forest trail. Soon enough, we’re aboard the 7:26 train to Le Châble before taking the gondola up to Verbier, where we meet Clément Guntern from the tourism office.

He quickly ushers us towards Sport Shop No. 1, where our equipment is already waiting. My snowboard only requires a few final adjustments, whilst elsewhere Fergal suddenly realises he’s wearing the exact same ski trousers he originally bought in this very shop back in the early 2000s. Impressively, both he and the trousers are still holding up remarkably well.
Laurent, less trusting of a vintage Alpine layering system, promptly purchases an expensive pair of thermal socks — a sensible move given the temperatures hovering around -14°C. Finally, after days of travelling and exploring the mountains, we are hitting the snow.

Despite the unusually dry start to winter across the Alps, Verbier’s altitude and extensive snowmaking have ensured excellent pistes. We spend the morning cruising beautifully groomed blue and red runs under clear skies, with our instructor Rachel guiding us around the resort.

Lunch at Le Dahu only deepens the Verbier experience. Surrounded by mountain views and classic Swiss Alpine atmosphere, we fully embrace tradition and order cheese fondue. At the time, this feels like an outstanding decision. The heavy legs and laboured first few runs afterwards suggest otherwise.

Still, there’s little time to dwell on melted-cheese fatigue because the afternoon promises another Swiss classic: Mont Fort. Ascending via a series of cable cars, we eventually board the final lift climbing towards 3,329 metres. From there, a steep metal staircase leads to the summit viewpoint itself. At the top, glaciers and jagged peaks stretch endlessly towards the horizon, including views of both Mont Blanc and the Matterhorn beneath flawless blue skies.

Eventually, after a few final runs, we descend back into Verbier village and say goodbye to Rachel. Sadly, there’s no time to properly sample the resort’s famous après-ski scene before our next train departure.

Instead, we squeeze in one quick beer at a tiny newsagent-café and listen to Fergal recount stories from old Verbier trips involving Prince Harry serving drinks and Lawrence Dallaglio buying the rounds. How the other half live! And whilst we may not be drinking champagne in quite the same style, the company is equally as royal. With a clinking of glasses, it’s time to say adieu to Verbier and hello — or rather, Grüezi — to the Aletsch Arena.

Aletsch Arena: A Different Kind of Alpine Paradise

The Aletsch Arena is a ski resort with a difference, where everything arrives just as we do — via cable car. The reason is simple: this high-altitude destination is entirely traffic-free, meaning goods and visitors alike make their way up the mountain by gondola.
Walking from the top station, we pass through the snow-lined streets of Bettmeralp, where the only things passing us at speed are children enjoying the crisp night air on their sledges. The bright lights of the restaurants and bars exude a warm ambience, and it all feels like a throwback to a more innocent era as we make the 15-minute stroll to the Hotel Garni Sporting.

The hotel provides an equally warm welcome, with friendly staff and traditional, cosy wooden interiors. Gathering around the table, a selection of local beers is presented to us as our guide David continues to enthuse about the area. Having enjoyed quite an adventurous youth travelling around the planet, he eventually settled in the Aletsch Arena and has never looked back. As he puts it, when you’ve found paradise, why would you leave?

It’s a good point, and he continues to sell us on the prospect over dinner, tantalising us with talk of 104 kilometres of slopes, 40 peaks rising above 4,000 metres, 300 days of sunshine and a sightseeing trip to the Great Aletsch Glacier, the largest glacier in the Alps. He’s clearly living the dream, and we’re definitely sold on it as we head to bed, eager for our first taste of the area in the morning.

The next day begins with a leisurely stroll to INTERSPORT Derby Sport, where I meet my guide for a one-to-one tour of the Aletsch Arena. Under clear blue skies, we start out at over 1,900 metres, an altitude that has allowed the snowmakers to do their job. With a decent covering of snow, we carve through the Riederfurka area, where a lovely mixture of blues and reds provides nothing too challenging and gives my legs a chance to warm up for the day. The snowboarding has been sublime, but for anyone visiting the Arena, the bucket-list experience is probably a trip to see the Great Aletsch Glacier.

With that in mind, we climb aboard the Bettmerhorn gondola and ascend to an altitude of 2,647 metres. It’s just a short stroll from here to the viewpoint, where the sheer magnitude of the glacier hits you. Like one giant river of ice, it stretches out in front of us. The rate at which it is receding is equally mind-blowing, but for very different reasons. Shockingly, the Aletsch Glacier is retreating at an average rate of more than 50 metres (164 feet) per year, with its total long-term retreat exceeding 3.2 kilometres (2 miles) since 1870.

It’s another reminder of just how precious these wonderful mountain environments are and why experiencing them should never be taken for granted. I leave feeling reflective but also inspired, not only by the sheer magnitude of the glacier and the surrounding landscape, with its 40 peaks rising above 4,000 metres, but also by the efforts being made to look after this remarkable region sustainably. As daylight fades, we gather together for a rather unique evening meal.

The local speciality of “Cholera” sounds quite unappealing on paper, but the reality is a rather tasty traditional Valais dish. This savoury pie, made with potatoes, leeks, cheese and apples, is associated with a time in the 19th century when locals had to make do with whatever ingredients they could lay their hands on during an outbreak of cholera.

The dish has remained a staple of the area ever since. Thankfully, cholera itself has proved rather less popular.
As the evening draws to a close, Fergal and I decide to have one last nightcap at Albi’s Mountain Rock Café. As we step through the doors, we find a lively place with trendy décor, pool tables and great music. It’s so good, in fact, that our little nightcap turns into a double as the conversatios flows as easily as the drinks.

With an early morning departure ahead, I return to the hotel, where I can’t help but linger on the balcony, watching the stars dazzle in the skies above. It’s a view that has stayed with me long after returning home, as has the trip itself. What began as an ambitious attempt to ride three Swiss resorts in three days turned into something altogether more memorable. From wolves howling beneath a moonlit forest to thermal rivers, perfectly groomed pistes and the breathtaking scale of the Aletsch Glacier, our journey may have gone a little off-piste at first, but it revealed just how much the Valais region has to offer. And with experiences like these, who says you need perfect powder to have the perfect Alpine adventure?